The durian, aka the ‘stinky fruit’, is moving upmarket. As durian season moves into high gear, Southeast Asian millionaires are sending private jets to get prime specimens fresh from the tree. As a longtime fan of the pineapple sized, spike covered fruit that smells like a sewer and tastes like heaven, I sympathize. Durian smoothies and durian ice cream are already turning up in ethnic markets around the country. The next priority project at the stately Mead manor: find a fruit stand in glamorous Queens where the stinky fruit rules.